anna brones

writer + artist + activist

What is Food Gentrification?

with one comment

Have you heard about the new term “food gentrification“? It’s this week’s topic on Foodie Underground.

“Food gentrification” started as a hashtag by writer Mikki Kendall, who wrote about the impact of turning ordinary products into trendy ones, and the ultimate social impact. “My grandmother was a master of turning offal into delicious, and I still use many of her recipes to this day. But now, once-affordable ingredients have been discovered by trendy chefs, and have been transformed into haute cuisine. Food is facing gentrification that may well put traditional meals out of reach for those who created the recipes,” Kendall wrote in January.

Just like rebuilding neighborhoods has shot up real estate prices and pushed out locals, rebuilding the food movement, putting certain common-day vegetables on a pedestal, in turn making them more expensive, is pushing people away from eating them.

There was a time when we all had access to fresh food and ingredients. Think back to our grandparents. There were few things available, but the things that were available were real food. There were vegetables, there was fruit and there were no Doritos. Often there was a garden. People ate real food simply because it was the only thing available.

Hop on over to Foodie Underground to read the full article.

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Written by Anna Brones

March 19, 2014 at 12:08

One Response

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  1. This is a really interesting, problematic concept. Anecdotally, my dad tells stories of when they would rely on oxtail and other less-than-glamorous cuts to get by. Like offal, oxtail has become trendy — it definitely shows in the price.

    Charles Hayward

    March 20, 2014 at 13:37


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